In 2001, I got a phone call from my friend in Vietnam Television asking about Tho Ha Village. At that time, I had no idea about this place. Feeling ashamed, I decided to jump on my motorbike the next day and make my way to Tho Ha with my best friend to discover the village. At that time, there were no tourists going there. The only image and information I had about Tho Ha before this trip was the beautiful picture in the Fine Arts Museum in Hanoi. Tho Ha was so attractive in this picture. It was the typical image of a traditional village with a village Gate, Banyan Tree and Communal House.
Upon first coming to this village, I found that the name of Tho Ha was well suited for its location. “Tho” means land, and “Ha” means river. Tho Ha is on a narrow peninsula that is located in the middle of the Cau River, so the village is surrounded by water on three sides. The only way to get there is to take the local ferry to the center of the village. From there, you can see a very interesting local market that only opens in the morning, the authentic gate of the village, the still intact 500 year old pagoda, and the impressive communal house.
The ferry taking people to the village. This is the only way to get to Tho Ha:
Boarding to the ferry:
The Local market:
The 500 years old Pagoda from outside:
More close up:
And from inside:
500 years old original doors:
And huge Buddha statue:
The lady drying rice cracker had just been made at ferry station:
Tho Ha is the only village in Vietnam with no gardens. The reason is there are too many people in the village and a very limited amount of land for each family, so there is no space for gardens. The rice field is inadequate for the needs of the village people, so they have had to produce handicrafts to earn their living. For such a long time, Tho Ha was very well known as one of the best villages in the North of Vietnam for manufacturing terracotta products such as big jars, vases and especially the terracotta coffins used for the scary custom of second burials of the people in the North of Vietnam. The quality of terracotta products here is the best because they fire their product in a kiln for 72 hours instead of 48 hours like in other places. The terracotta here is much harder and more durable than the regular product. I was totally shocked on my first trip to Tho Ha upon seeing many local houses there constructed of defective coffins. Instead of discarding the defects, they made use of this terracotta as the brick for building their houses. The defective and broken coffins, vases and other terracotta products have been used in their walls for several hundred years and make Tho Ha unique among all the other villages on the Red River Delta.
One of the houses had been built of terracotta coffins:
This fence in a small alley is also built of the coffins:
Close up of the wall with defective terracotta coffins:
Most of the families in Tho Ha live in very narrow alleys because they need to save the land for their houses. Since the decade of the 70s in the last century, they have stopped manufacturing the terracotta products, and now we can only see the relics in the walls of their houses. The main income of the village now comes from making rice paper for spring rolls. Visiting Tho Ha, you can see how rice paper is made in any house of the village and you can walk in the shade of rice paper being dried along the small alleys. Many of these alleys are connected to each other so that it seems you are walking in a maze with lots of surprises at every turn.
A lady drying rice paper along the alleys:
Lady in traditional costume at a corner of the alley:
Rice papper drying on the narrow alley:
To be continue…



























































































